Maha Kumbh 2025: A Journey Beyond Words
Before my visit, I had read many posts where people claimed they had no words to describe the Maha Kumbh experience; that it had left them speechless. Now that I’ve been to Prayagraj myself, I understand exactly what they meant. Some things can’t just be told; they have to be LIVED, FELT, EXPERIENCED, and ABSORBED.
The scale of Maha Kumbh is staggering. It’s not just an event; it’s a phenomenon. So much is happening, evolving, flowing – just like the endless streams of people walking in every direction, but purposefully. Thoughts came and went like waves, mirroring the ceaseless movement around me. Every minute brought a new observation, a new realization, a new feeling but at the core of it all was one overriding emotion: HUMILITY.
The People, The Stories, The Spirit
Maha Kumbh is an eye-opener, a learning experience at multiple levels. It’s the people that make it extraordinary, and I was fortunate to witness many stories up close:
- There was an elderly couple at our camp. The husband was in a wheelchair, with a 24×7 helper, yet their spirit remained unshaken. They were eagerly looking forward to taking the boat to the Triveni Sangam for the holy dip and thereafter had plans to travel to Varanasi for Maha Shivratri. Their enthusiasm was inspiring! Similarly, I saw an elderly woman at Arail Ghat, navigating the chaotic crowds with a walker, taking small yet resolute steps. I marvelled at her strength—how does one muster such determination amidst the mayhem?
- At the Akhadas, I met a group of young travellers from Brazil. What always amazes me is how international visitors navigate places like these – crowded, unpredictable, challenging. Even as an Indian, born and raised here, I often hesitate before embarking on such journeys. Yet, this group was seamlessly blending in like language wasn’t even a barrier – engaging with Kinnars, taking their blessings, sipping sugarcane juice from street vendors, and hitchhiking to get around. The sheer adaptability left me in awe.
- During my boat ride to the Sangam, I met two professionals. Both South Indians and one of who had flown in from Atlanta, USA to visit Varanasi, Prayagraj, Lucknow, and Haridwar. He had booked a luxury tent for his stay at Kumbh, but fell sick in Varanasi and couldn’t travel to Prayagraj. Once he felt better, he did a day trip, just for the Snan! He didn’t sweat much about not getting a refund for his tent booking, but what impressed me was that with financial wellbeing also comes the need for comfort, which he was happy and willing to forego for this experience.
- A heartwarming sight at a crowded restaurant caught my attention—a son, likely in his 30s, who had brought his parents to the Kumbh. He took care of them like little kids. He visibly looked tired but ensured he got them chairs to sit, got hot food for them, despite his father saying he wasn’t hungry/didn’t feel like eating, he insisted his father ate. Given how crowded the restaurant was, he couldn’t manage a seat for himself, so he stood and quickly ate. He started after them but finished before them, just to ensure he is around and available, did they need anything else. Watching this small yet significant act of devotion was so pleasing.
- Even at the Prayagraj Airport, an everyday moment stood out. A cleaning staff member tirelessly maintained the washrooms, smiling and welcoming every user, ensuring a spotless space. Her dedication and joy in her work reminded me of my own days in the corporate world (sitting in a plush office and still complaining about trivial issues!). Perspective truly changes everything.
These are mere 5 stories I share here. But there were countless more; I could go on and on…
The Magic and the Magnitude of Kumbh
It’s hard to believe that Kumbh is a temporary city and most of this won’t be here after 45 days. The sheer scale of it is mind-boggling: sprawling, massive, teeming with millions. How does a city with a population of ~60 lacs accommodate over 60 crore people? It’s unimaginable, yet it functions! Hats off to the administration, the traffic cops, and the residents of this city. Watching people walk endlessly – some with chappals, some barefoot, children perched on shoulders, bags in hand – was all so HUMBLING. All for one purpose: a sacred dip believed to lead to moksha!
Maha Kumbh is a place where all distinctions blur—caste, class, wealth, background. It’s an equalizer. And in this melting pot of humanity, my trip wouldn’t have been the same without Salman, my bike driver. He ensured I reached my camp safely on day one and got me to the airport in time on the last day. A devout Muslim who took it upon himself to guide me (and many others like me) through this deeply Hindu pilgrimage. We navigated the congested lanes of Arail, relished kachoris, and shared stories over coffee. Another reminder from the universe that HUMANITY TRANSCENDS RELIGION.
Marvels at Kumbh
I did the Holy Dip at Triveni Sangam, which was a surreal, almost out-of-body experience. I immersed myself at the Digital Kumbh Experience Centre, watched the breathtaking laser show at Kila Ghat, marvelled at the 12 Jyotirlingas at Shivalaya Park, and visited many ancient temples, i.e., Nagvasuki Temple, Adi Shankara Viman Mandapam, and the Lete Hanuman Mandir (from the outside). The Ganga Aarti at Saraswati Ghat was profoundly calming and brought back memories of the Ganga Aarti I had witnessed in Banaras at the Dashashwamedh Ghat; spectacular!
Yet, there were two things I wish I could have done – (a) engage with the Naga Sadhus and be mesmerized hearing their stories (most had moved on to Varanasi for Shivratri) and (b) take the helicopter ride for an aerial view of Kumbh. Oh, look at me complaining already! Human nature, what else can I say!
The Unexpected and the Unforgettable
Like many, I was apprehensive before my visit—would I be able to navigate the crowds? What about hygiene? Safety? Stay? Food? Will the bikes and boats be operational? How much would I have to walk? Surprisingly, everything went smoothly (except for one intense moment when the crowd almost turned into a stampede – my closest encounter ever, and yes, it was terrifying!). The real challenge? The flight delays. I spent nearly 12 hours at Prayagraj Airport! While Kumbh left me energized, the wait at the airport drained me.
Despite that, I am overwhelmed with gratitude. The visit happened, and it was more beautiful and seamless than I could ever think of. Har Har Gange! Har Har Mahadev!



































Very comprehensive and nice account
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Thank you!
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Wonderfully shown and explained.I was in Prayagraj in 1951,flew in a single engined 4seater aircraft flown by Raja of Bhartari.Day spent in going around and after
the last show took a train back to Lucknow.The film we saw was Dillagi with Surayia and Sham.
Was spending summer
with my sister in Lucknow.
Gone to pryagrajraj many times between 1980to2005 on Business
trips and often on boat to Sangam.
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Never imagined you on a bike! What an adventure. It appears to be a must truly unforgettable experience!
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Haha, so true! In two days, my bike quota for life was done! Overall, an experience for life!
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I envy you, this looks so amazing. How many days did you spend at Prayagraj? Is it worth going outside the Kumbh?
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I was at Kumbh for 2 days 2 nights. Many people also covered Ayodhya and/or Varanasi, in which case you need more time. In Prayagraj City, there is more to do (e.g., Anand Bhawan, Khusro Bagh, etc.), but distances are alot and traffic is too much, so my recommendation would be stay put at Kumbh and cover it as exhaustively as possible. Enjoy every moment and soak in the vibe.
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Magnificent
It seemed a live picture being played in front of our eyes. Missed a great chance to visit mahakumbh
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I am sure it must have been a beautiful & amazing experience!
Quite informative for anyone planning.
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Happy to speak and share in more detail, as needed.
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Beautifully captured & experienced it through your writing. I feel Vir Das captured ‘Two India’s’, rightly, and we sitting in Metros have a strong disconnect with the real India. Your story is a depiction of India that we miss but proudly do get associated with it. Thanks for sharing!!
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Oh yes, this was a different world! One cannot even imagine! One needs to live it, feel it, embrace it. The way Prayagraj managed and welcomed 60cr+ people can only make one feel proud of being an Indian!
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well written and described for me to feel the moment . I was worried about crowd and hence did not venture at all
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Very nicely explained it felt as if I was there taking a dip with you. Thank you so much
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Glad you felt like that!
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Enjoyed reading it – very well written..
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Thank you!
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Brilliant Charu, beautiful pictures and heartfelt writeup…thank you for sharing.
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Seems like one immersive experience and a once in a lifetime opportunity! Beautifully written.
Did you carry some of the water back ?
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Thank You! Yes!
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Wonderful. Thanks for sharing. It was like me visiting the Kumbh through your experience!
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I’m glad!
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